Backpacking At Greyson Highlands: Day 3
Idris, age two, climbing up for a better view
That night we went to bed early again, well before sunset. I slept better, and woke feeling refreshed. I thought to myself as I rolled over and stretched my stiff muscles that a few weeks of this would probably cure any poor sleep habits I’ve acquired in recent years.
We had oatmeal again for breakfast and packed up quickly. I chatted with a silver-haired, bright-eyed female thru-hiker that eagerly showed me her ultra-lightweight pack, raw foods, and tiny tent. I enviously hefted her 10-lb pack and fantasized about hiking with something so light.
As we set out, Chris and I calculated our pack weights. To our consternation, we realized we were only carrying 12 lbs per person in our group. Technically, we would be classified as ultra-light backpackers….we just happened to be carrying weight for 3 kids, AND two of those kids, into the bargain!
We hiked with a purpose, but without rushing. Over streams, up stone steps, through forest and rhododendron and back onto grassy highlands. We had exactly 2 protein bars per person, but we knew we had only 2.5 miles to go, and food waiting in our car. We stopped to sit on a massive boulder and soak in a bit of sunshine while the kids practiced their bouldering skills and Coco nursed. Adelaide was in her element—she chatted with passing hikers, gave them hiking tips, and suggested viewpoints for them. I was awed to see her confidence, her delight in the challenge and appreciation for the beauty around her.
Adelaide practicing her “adventure skills” …”the hike is my teacher, the skills come in the wild-er-ness”
I remembered a sweet moment the day before, as we hiked down the pine mountain trail, where both of us had taken pretty hard falls. It was on a rocky stretch, and we were holding hands when she casually remarked, “At home, I’m just a reg-lear girl. I’m just a normal kid. But in the wild—in the wild-er-ness, THAT’S when I turn into something—I turn into a strong, brave, SPECIAL kid. It’s only when I’m hiking that you can see the Adventure Girl come out.”
We took the Appalachian Spur trail straight down, and arrived at the Backpacker’s lot around lunchtime. I blessed Chris’ inspiration at leaving food in the car for when we got back—we had fresh apples, cheese-its, dark chocolate almond lacey cookies, and sour gummy candies.
We dove into the apples. That first bite was a heady experience. We lounged about the car, letting the kids rest a bit, and then started packing everything in. We rounded up the littles for one last diaper change.
Here, the compostables really got their last laugh. We laid Idris in the trunk of our car, and carefully removed his pants, but it did no good—the diaper was only a wet one, but it split and spilled plant-based beads all over the interior of the car and onto the gravel. Eco-friendly or not, I can’t imagine using these things on a daily basis—the only possible justification for using this kind of diaper is to save yourself from packing several pounds of kid poop along with you on the way out. We threw it into a plastic bag, scrubbed Idris down with our final precious wipe, and hit the road, resolved to stop at the first place that looked like it made a decent burger and fries.
It was an incredible trip, and probably one of the best places to go for a beginner’s backpacking trip—plenty of water, multiple campsites along the way (you could even split this into a 3 or 4-night trip, or take alternate trails to extend or cut the mileage), breath-taking views, varied landscapes, and WILD PONIES.
I’m sure we will be back someday. I’m determined when that day comes, I will have better outer layers, a bit more food, and one less kid in diapers.
Tinkerbell rhododendron, one of the many varieties in bloom mid-June all over the blue ridge mountains
On our way out, we pulled off the side of the road for cell service and a call home. My mom told me of how my Papa held my Grandma’s hand and told her “you are my wife” in a final surge of recognition. I looked out across the mountains fading from green to misty blue as she told me he hadn’t been conscious for a few days. The call was brief, and I stood looking across to the horizon, resting in the beauty the world offers in the bitterest moments of our lives. I could hear my Papa’s voice singing to me, “They didn’t lay a tombstone at the head of his grave. They just put a little sign—a little sign that read ‘This cowboy was killed—was killed in a fall. Now he ain’t gonna see his Mama when the work’s all done this fall.’”
How marvelous, that grief and joy, laughter and tears, beauty and frailty, adventure and loss can find space in the peace of the wilderness.
Our Route:
Park at the Backpacker’s Lot, and hike up to Massie Gap. Take the Rhododendron trail until it intersects with the Appalachian Trail. Continue on to the intersection, and turn left to hike a mile to Thomas Knob (there’s a stream for water if you need it). There’s lots of campsites here with beautiful views of the blue ridge mountains, even before you reach the AT shelter. It’s about 3.5 miles day 1. Camp the night. You can continue on to Mt. Rogers, but we skipped it—there’s no view, and it was an easy way to shave a few miles off the trip.
In the morning, backtrack about 1 mile to the fork, and take the Pine Mountain Trail on your left through the rhododendron and down the mountain, into the forests and finally, wide-open grassy meadows. It’s about 4 miles to Scales, where we found rustic pit toilets (no water) and another 3 miles along the Appalachian Trail to Wise Shelter, where we camped night 2. (Lots of streams and water sources along the way, and a huge creek at Wise.) For a shorter trip, take the shortcut from Scales to Wise Shelter along the Scales trail. I wish we’d done this—it would have made an 8 mile day into only 6.
Day 3 is easy, just hiking on the Appalachian trail past Wise Shelter until you reach the Appalachian Spur Trail, which will take you straight back to the Backpacker’s lot. I’d guess it’s about 2.5 miles day 3. If you want more boulders and a longer day, take the Wilburn ridge trail instead, and hike back down the Rhododendron trail.